The evening sailing gets the photographs, but the midday one is the trip that does what the
brochure says. You are on a working high-country station for about two hours, and lunch is
the sitting where you can actually see it.
What daylight changes
Three things, in order of how much they matter.
The farm demonstration. A rural host works a mob of sheep with heading dogs and huntaways
in an open amphitheatre cut into the hillside. In daylight you can follow what the dogs are
doing across a whole paddock, which is most of the point; under lights you can follow what
they are doing in the pen.
The gardens. The lakeside gardens between the homestead and the jetty are open to walk if
your sitting leaves time, and in summer they are genuinely worth ten minutes — roses,
hydrangeas and a view straight back down the lake. Evening sittings rarely get them.
The crossing. Forty-five minutes each way is ninety minutes on Lake Whakatipu, and the
west arm has no road on either shore. In daylight that is scenery you cannot reach any other
way. In the dark it is a boat ride.
What does not change
The food. Local meats come off the same open wood-fired grill at the Colonel’s Homestead and
are carved to order, with salads, hot vegetables, breads, New Zealand cheeses and a long
dessert table alongside. It is a buffet — you serve yourself, you can go back, and nobody has
to negotiate a set menu. Drinks are extra on every option, and both vessels are cashless.
The price does not change either. The lunch and dinner sittings of the Gourmet BBQ are the
same fare; you are choosing a time of day, not a tier.
Which vessel, and the practical caveat
This listing puts you on the Spirit of Queenstown, the modern catamaran: quiet, quick to
board, lots of glass, and the easier option if anyone in your group would rather avoid
steamship stairs. If you specifically want the 1912 coal-fired
TSS Earnslaw, book the option that names her — you cannot swap at the
wharf. The vessel comparison covers both.
When to take dinner instead
Between about November and February a late sitting crosses in gold light, eats with the lake
still bright, and comes home under stars — and that is a better evening than a good lunch. Our
lunch versus dinner guide works through it month by
month, and the which-cruise guide covers
the farm tour and the horse trek if the buffet is not the draw.